13-Sep-2004

At this point, I haven’t begun the physical construction yet. I must emphasize the importance of reading extensively about “MAME Cabinets”—a term commonly used—to gather a wide range of perspectives. Everyone has different expectations and requirements for their arcade machine.

Originally, my goal was to build a DDR-style cabinet, and I was determined to replicate it exactly. However, after visiting arcades and taking measurements, I discovered that its dimensions were impractical for a home environment—especially when considering the available doorway clearance.

With that idea set aside, I decided to pursue a more feasible design:

• Cabinet Dimensions: A basic upright video machine measuring approximately 23 inches wide, with a maximum of 26 inches (keeping in mind that the doorway is 27 inches wide).

• Audio and Lighting: High-powered speakers, an amplifier, and lights on top of the cabinet—primarily intended for StepMania—mounted on a custom bracket (this is planned as the final addition).

• Display: A 21-23 inch monitor that allows the PC to serve multiple purposes. Although a large TV or VGA screen could be used for MAME, it wouldn’t be ideal for general PC or Windows gaming.

• Coin Mechanism: Two coin slots are desired, though they are relatively expensive and would be the last feature added.

• Controls: A design incorporating start buttons for both one- and two-player modes, a two-player console featuring one joystick and six buttons per player, and a trackball (or a mouse with two buttons) to support additional games and Windows control.

• Keyboard: A future plan includes an infrared keyboard to preserve the cabinet’s authentic appearance.

• Design Inspiration: Although my initial plans varied, I now intend for the cabinet to be modeled similar to a classic Space Invaders standup cabinet.

Bill of materials

17th Oct 2004

I ordered the standard I-PAC interface, a device allowing wiring of all the arcade buttons back to a PC through the keyboard connector. While the initial price seemed reasonable, the addition of VAT and DHL charges brought the total to £36. Nevertheless, this solution is far superior to the cumbersome and unreliable alternative of modifying a keyboard.

Nov 2004

I placed an order for the buttons and two

joysticks. However, I feel that Happ Controls overcharged me. On a USA website, the total for these components would have been roughly $66—even with a £10 delivery fee, the cost would have been under £45. In contrast, the UK outlet ended up charging around £70. I will share the price lists once I locate them.

15th Jan 2005

With the holiday season behind me, I resumed work on the project. I purchased a 28mm drill bit from B&Q for creating the button holes. Although it was a bit expensive at £4.58, I found no suitable alternative.

With that in mind, I started designing a preliminary control panel using some inexpensive wood. Progress was limited, and I encountered an issue with the layout—the joysticks were positioned at each end. The plan is to place a trackball in the center. Fortunately, I managed to acquire an old PC trackball which fits the purpose perfectly. I will share more details as the construction of the panel advances.

20th Jan 2005

A challenge arose regarding the monitor's integration into the cabinet. Although the unit is advertised as a 21-inch monitor, the actual display measures only about 16 inches in width. In comparison, my previous 17-inch monitor measured roughly 15.5 inches, which raises questions about how manufacturers report these dimensions.

My primary concern is that the monitor may appear lost within the cabinet—designed to accommodate a 25-inch display—if left as is. With the current monitor's overall width being less than 19.5 inches, it could create an unbalanced look.

I considered reducing the cabinet's front width from 26 inches to approximately 20-21 inches to better match the monitor's size. However, such a change might result in a cabinet that appears out of proportion—narrow at the front and excessively long on the sides.

I continue to evaluate the best approach to a harmonious design.

22 Jan 2005

It was time to move forward with the project. I visited my local DIY shop—3 Ways DIY, a store that offers an extensive range of timber—instead of B&Q this time. Following the plans, I purchased three pieces of 3/4" thick MDF, each measuring 4 feet by 8 feet. I must admit, the 8-foot length was daunting; the only available space in my house was a doorway, as the sheets couldn’t stand upright given our ceiling height of just under 8 feet.

Despite these challenges, the price was an absolute bargain at £35 plus £4 for delivery. There was no way I could have transported even one sheet on my own. The accompanying photograph doesn’t fully capture the enormity of these sheets—so large, in fact, that they prevented the door from closing and made navigating around the fridge nearly impossible.

23 Jan 2005

Eager to start, I immediately set about cutting the wood. The sheer size of the material presented a significant challenge; however, once I reduced some of the dimensions, I was able to manage the pieces comfortably on the kitchen table.

24th - 26th Jan 2005

Construction progressed steadily over these days as I continued to assemble and refine the cabinet.

27th Jan 2005

I have now cut all the necessary components and assembled most of the cabinet. I began by applying a specialized MDF primer from B&Q (£8) since, although you can paint directly onto MDF, its cut edges tend to absorb too much paint. After allowing it to dry, I painted the unit black using emulsion paint. I'm not entirely satisfied with the finish and may opt for a more glossy, albeit more expensive, paint in the future. The accompanying photo shows the cabinet immediately after the primer application.

Trackball Modification

This is where the fun begins. I dedicated some time to rethinking the trackball's design. The image shows it with the top removed, marking the first step in adapting it for the control panel.

The back of the control panel is designed to position the trackball components at an optimal distance using precisely cut wooden spacers. After carefully aligning these spacers, I secured them to the control panel with super glue. The trackball is then aligned and fastened to the wooden standoffs using screws, ensuring a stable and functional setup.

Trackball Base Installation

The photo shows the base of the trackball elevated from the control panel using wooden standoffs. I was initially unsure if super glue would hold, but it has performed well so far.

Securely Fastened

All components have now been firmly secured in place with screws.

Drilled, Primed, and Painted

I completed the drilling, applied the primer, and finished with a coat of emulsion paint—resulting in a truly satisfying finish.

30 Jan 2005

I repainted the cabinet using a glossy finish, and the transformation is remarkable—it looks considerably better than before.

31 Jan 2005

I had hoped the project would be completed by now—clearly, that wasn't the case! Today, I reassembled the control panel, which had also been repainted yesterday. After connecting it to the IPAC device, everything is operating flawlessly. The accompanying photo shows the control panel before any wiring was installed.

Wiring to the IPAC Device

This image displays the complete wiring connected to the IPAC device. Please note that the trackball buttons have not been wired to the IPAC; instead, they are directly soldered to the two central black buttons on the board.

Fitted to the Machine

This image shows the installation within the cabinet. Although the photo is somewhat dark—a common issue with camera phones—the setup is clearly visible.

Front View with Lock Installed

The front of the cabinet now features an integrated lock for secure access.

Front View – Unlocked and Keyboard Drawer Ejected

The front of the cabinet is unlocked, revealing the keyboard drawer. Ultimately, I opted for a keyboard drawer instead of an infrared keyboard.

Angled Back on a Hinge

I've mounted the angled back on a hinge to allow for easy removal of the monitor—otherwise, it could only be accessed from the front. (And yes, the finish is exceptionally glossy!)

8 Feb 2005

I haven't made significant progress recently, but I managed to print a high-quality marquee logo - one of my favorite classic games—and I've decided to theme the entire cabinet around it. Fortunately, accessing a glossy photo-quality printer (thanks, Ken!) meant there was no additional cost. While I haven't yet found suitable marquee retainers, a wide strip of black electrical tape is serving as an effective temporary solution. Additionally, I've repositioned the keyboard drawer further forward to prevent it from catching my fingers on the underside; now, with no access to that space, it's much easier to use.

16 April 2005

It’s been a while since I last worked on this project, but here’s an update on its current state. Inside the cabinet, an amplifier powers the speakers located on the top. I chose not to install speakers in the dedicated speaker panel to avoid the risk of damaging those high-quality Sony speakers.

The amplifier, a Goodmans model, is controllable via infrared. I disassembled it to extend the sensor, and it now functions exceptionally well.

August 2006

I further enhanced the infrared control system to integrate additional functions. Now, I can trigger the PC's power button at the front, simulate coin insertion by pressing key 5, and toggle the marquee’s main fluorescent light using spare buttons on the remote control—all while the same remote continues to manage the audio amplifier’s power and volume.

That project is not currently available at the moment due to this whole website being re-written.

Also note, the project would need more development unless you were to use the same type of remote control.